Friday, 22 April 2011

Je conduis ma voiture à la route du vin et je fais la prononciation fausse

Aujourd’hui, j’ai conduit sur la route du vin.  Il est le premier route touristique en France selon aux guides en français.  Afin que je trouverais les endroits en route j’ai utile mon Navman.  J’ai pris le tourne faux plusieurs temps qui a eu Emily m’a dit prendre un u tourne !  J’ai visité une ville joli appeler Obernai laquelle j’ai eu déjeuner.  Pour déjeuner j’ai mangé une quiche lorraine avec salade verte.  Il était très bon.   La quiche a eu chaud dans un four pas une micro-onde. 
Apres midi, j’ai visité Mont Sainte-Odile, qui le site de couvent qu’il avait fondé dans le 8 siècle.  Aujourd’hui il est un entrepris pour les touristes et les Alsacien qui font un pèlerinage.  Il y a un long mur de Païen.   Il avait construite par les Gallois  environ 1000 ans avant J-C.  J’ai randonne un sentier abord le mur.  Il était très intéressant.  J’ai tenté avoir une conversation avec une femme qui a mis quelque d’eau dans une bouteille d’une source d’Odile.  Malheureusement, j’ai prononcé « g » comme en anglais.  La femme n’a pas compris, mais son mari a compris.  Il a dit qu’il goute bien.  C’est assez français pour aujourd’hui !

Today is Good Friday.  The apartment is on a fairly busy road so it gets a bit noisy from about 7am and doesn’t go quite until about 8 pm when it gets dark.  I was wondering whether I would get my usual baguette this morning and fortunately when I looked out the window a person was emerging from the boulangerie with a baguette.  A teeny sense of excitement came my way as I imagined a slightly warm baguette with apricot jam.  Yum!
The weather was good again, a bit of cloud in morning.  Today was to be my first real drive in the C3.  I took the Navman down and then spent a little while trying to figure out how everything worked.  Gone are the days when you can get into a car and quickly figure out which stick operates the indicators and which one the windscreen wipers and of course where are the lights.  This car has four sticks, one each for the above described, then a very complicated one for the cruise control which required me to read the manual, in French and figure out how it worked.  Then there is the other one for the on board computer.  Eventually it was all figured out.  I should say that from an ergonomic point of view I think the French should have looked over the border to Germany to see how it is done as my Golf was very simple to figure out and had all those functions on only two sticks and the information from the computer in front of one.
Today I decided do a bit of the Route du Vin which is tourist trail through the vineyards.  I duly figured out which towns I should go to and set Emily up to tell where to go.  One of the problems with a Navman is that the builders of them give you a wonderful toy which has to have maps that are regularly updated.  For three weeks I was not going to update my   one unless I could just rent it for a time.  No such luck that is only available for a later model.
The vineyards stretch around 120 kilometres and I was do that much today as I had a walk I wanted to do.  The first stop was in a  little village at the beginning of the trail but it was unremarkable.  The next was lovely.  It is called Obernai and had the remains of the remparts when it was a walled village. I had lunch there ordering a Quiche Lorraine.  It was one of the best I have had the filling was light and tasty, a bit salty from the bacon or ham and just the right size.  I walked around a bit before plugging in my next destination which as Mont Sainte-Odile.  There is a convent on the top of mountain (767m) and it is a bit of spiritual pilgrimage for the Alsaciens according to Lonely Planet. 
The roads are quite narrow and I was keeping close to the left and trying to judge the width of a new car when I almighty bang occurred and the car bounced severely.  I had hit a kerb where it sort of projected into the road.  I watched a couple others do it further on. 
The road to the summit was reasonably steep but the little car did easily.  It is only a 1.4 diesel but has the pulling power of something in petrol much larger.  I was surprised when I arrived to see so many people there.  I found a park and walked up to the convent which is a major structure which is quite commercial, to the extent about the only things religious were a couple of chapels (pay a Euro to turn the lights on) and some pictures of priests and the Pope visiting.  There were restaurants and a shop. 
The view was wonderful.  I took a walk down the hill to a spring called the Source d’Odile which is where this religious person found water.  She had founded the convent in about 700AD.  One couple were filling up their bottles with the water.  After a few minutes I plucked up the courage to ask what it tasted it like but I managed to pronounce the “g” as in English not in French so she did not understand.  The man understood but did not engage in conversation so my minor attempt at speaking today was a bit of failure. 
Further along from the Convent were a number of walking trails one of them took you to a long wall of stone that had been constructed about 3000 years ago but the Celts and then rebuilt by the Romans.  It was interested to see the wall which is visible in parts and to marvel at how they had carried what were rather large well shaped stones to make the wall.  It was also nice to walk amongst nature and here the birds.  There were lots of people out walking along the tracks which were not concreted and quite rough in places.  What was noticeable is how many Germans were around and walking.  I thought that it would have been about half the people.  Not surprising I suppose since the border is so close. 
I was pleased that I found it reasonably straight forward to drive on the right again after 18 months.  I remember well the first time driving in France and being seriously fearful as the roads were so narrow.  I think driving in Wellington is an aid to driving anywhere.  I had one scary moment when this car seemed decide to go on my side of the road.  I hit the brakes and fortunately he or she returned to their side of the road.  I notice I am much slower on the roads partly I don’t know where  I am going but also I am interested to see if there is anywhere I can stop to look at the country side. 
While the day was nice a clear the brown haze really cut visibility so it was impossible to see Strasbourg from up high despite it only being about 40 kms away. 
I still like my VW Golf to drive the best.  This car is definitely better than the Fiat I had last time in France; the C3 has more power it is more economical, and feels more solid.  The gears move easily into the right slot and so far I have not graunched them, which is what I did a few times with the Fiat.  The suspension is a bit soft and it has a bit of understeer but overall not a bad driving experience.  As I said earlier it is a pity about the poor ergonomics of the interior.

Rental Car pick up


Yesterday was another warm one, not quite as hot as the previous couple of days.  In the morning I walked a slightly different route Strasbourg centre-ville to see some of the area I saw from the boat in Petit France at a slightly higher level.  I walked round the Modern Art museum then across the Barrage Vauban which was constructed to keep out invader and consists of three large towers.  On one of the ramparts of the bridges that go across the river there was a very pretty house which had wisteria all over it.  It was the office of a psychologist who dealth with children and their families.  The site of the place would make a nice place to go. 
I decided to have a traditional Alsatian meal and found a restaurant that specialised in those dishes.  It is called a Baeckeofe traditionnel,  which is pork with ten spices marinated in Riesling.  I thought it was a bit bland in taste and really think that cassoulet has to be my favourite of that style of dish.  There are some others I might try while here but they what one would describe as hearty.
My highlight of the day was picking up my car from the rental car agency.  It was done all in French even though the woman could speak a bit of English.  She was delightful and very helpful.  The car is a Citroen C3 and is diesel.  So fuel with be cheaper and it won’t use as much. It is a bit quirky to drive but at least it does not have the difficult gearbox of Margaret’s  (my sister) Clio.  I was hoping to have the latest version of the Clio but no such luck. 
Today is Good Friday.  Hardly any traffic around as everyone seems to be asleep or doing other things.  In France, from what I could read only Alsace has Good Friday as a holiday. 

Thursday, 21 April 2011

Je prends ma voiture


Aujourd’hui il fait beau encore.
Ce matin j’ai marche à centre-ville vers Petit France.  Presque marchant près de Barrage Vauban en Petit France j’ai vu une maison jolie dans lequel il y avait un bureau de psychologie pour les enfants et leurs familles.   Il a construit sur un rempart dans le fleuve.  L’entrée a été couverte avec les fleurs des wistérias.  

J’ai décidé avoir un déjeuner d’Alsace et j’ai cherché un restaurant qui cuisinait un repas Alsacien.  Le plat principal était Baeckeofe traditionnel aux 10 épices, marine au riesling et il a venu avec une salade verte.  La nourriture était solide et il était de bon goût.  Pour moi, je pense que je préfère un cassoulet plus que le baeckeofe.  J’ai eu un gewürztraminer avec mon repas qui était très bien.
Après déjeuner j’ai pris ma voiture de location de voitures.  J’ai utile mon français presque le travail administratif a fait. La vendeuse a parlé de moi en français plupart et j’ai compris la plupart d’elle a dit.  La voiture est un Citroën C3 qu’utile gazole.  Il est très français conduire.

Wednesday, 20 April 2011

Strasbourg et Colmar

Un autre jour qu’il fait beau, comme hier.  Hier, j’ai marche à centre-ville ou j’suis allée en un bateau voir vieux Strasbourg par rivière.  La cite est très beau, beaucoup des vieille bâtiments et immeubles.  Nous sommes allées deux écluses et quelque les veilles barrages.  Apres un circuit de la ville le bateau est allé à la place d’Européen Parlement, Conseil Europe et le Palais de Droites de l’homme.  Les bâtiments ont été magnifiques. 
Centre- ville Strasbourg from Cathedral
J’ai eu un sandwich jambon que j’ai mangé proche de rivière.  Il était très bon s’assoir dans le sol.  Puis, je suis allée à la Poste acheter quelque des timbres.  J’ai dit la serveuse où je voulais envoyer mes cartes postales laquelle elle a compris !  Je suis été très excite.
Un peu tard je suis monte la tour de cathédral.  Il est très haut,  66 mètres !  La vue de Strasbourg a été très magnifique. 
Aujourd’hui, j’ai pris le train à Colmar.  Il est une belle ville, avec un quartier appeler Petit Vénice.  Il y avait beaucoup touristes visitaient la ville.  J’ai promenade dans le quartier historique aussi j’ai visité une musée qui a eu le retable d’Issenheim.  Le jour a devenu très chaud et la température fait  environs 27 dégrées. 
Andrew, il y a un bâtiment pour stationnement des vélos proche de Gare de Strasbourg. J'ai été très surpris lorsque je l'ai vu.
Stationnement pour les velos
 
Yesterday started off cool but by midday had warmed up considerably. My daily routine tends to be get-up walk the fifty metres to my local Boulanger and purchase a demi baguette for breakfast.  The baguettes are different from the west and south of France with a texture that is closer to the baguette that we get from Bordeaux bakery in Wellington.  My walk to centre-ville takes about twenty minutes and then another 20 or so minutes depending on where I am going.  I think I have the navigation of the city centre reasonably well understood and so far have not really got lost. 

As I noted in my last blog one needs to watch out for cyclists.  I have had a few close calls but they don’t tend ride fast around the place unlike around the Wellington waterfront.  The streets are paved with cobblestones so that probably means a slower ride anyway.  The other hazards are of course dog pooh, and the occasional tram as they are quite quiet when going slowly.  

My first activity was a boat trip around the city called the Grande Ile, with the river called the L’Ill.  It has been much modified over the centuries and is now well controlled by humans.  It was a good way to get a sense of that part of the city.  The boat I was on was full as were most of them for a good part of the day.   We went down the river a bit as well to the European Parliament buildings and the European Court Human Rights.  Magnificent modern buildings!

I had a wonderful lunch, baguette with lovely ham.  As I wanted to get some stamps I found La Poste and had a conversation with the server explaining in French my needs.  She understood even asked me a question or two and we settled on ten stamps.  I came away feeling rather pleased with myself.  My next use of French was to get a ticket to climb into the spire of the Cathedral, using words I now know!  No subjunctive needed for those who were wondering.  It was quite a climb up to the viewing area, 66 metres they said and it felt like it.  The steps had many people on them because you could see where they had worn and new pieces fitted in. 

Enjoying  the afternoon sun in Petit France
It was hot work and needing something cooler to slake my thirst I headed down to Petit France where I ordered a nice cold beer and watched boats and people wander by.  Very pleasant!  It is surprisingly warm and I wish I had brought lighter clothing with me as I was thinking it would be more like a Wellington spring; cold.  The weather averages suggested that also.

Today I took a train to Colmar, another town with a significant historic area called Petit Venice.  It was very pretty also, lots of half-timbered houses.  There were many tourists around.  I had a meal at a place looked quite nice but the pork filet was a bit overcooked so not a great French meal. I then spent a couple of hours wandering around the area.  In my walks I found a libraire where I was able to get a bit of stationery.  I wanted a notebook so I found a server and asked her to help me. She kindly did so and our entire interaction was in French.  More excitement on my part!!

Petit Venice
The other highlight was a visit to the local museum where they have this magnificent Altarpiece that is a carving surrounded by these paintings that fold out to provide a story about the Jesus.  Appropriately it is displayed in an old Dominican Monastery. 

The day was even warmer than yesterday, reaching about 27°C.

I have decided that the new electronic tablets or the like are going to be very useful.  It means that one does not have to take lots of books but more importantly you can download documents and not have print them out before one goes away.  I am almost persuaded that for my next trip I will need to get an iPad or one of the competitors.

Monday, 18 April 2011

Une volée à Bâle et un voyage à Strasbourg

Hier, j’ai volé à Bâle de Londres.  Samedi, j’ai écrit au propre d’appartement dire lui a l’heure j’aurais arrivé à Strasbourg  mais je n’ai pas fait trouver une internet connexion libre.  Heureusement, j’ai eu son numéro de téléphone portable.  Il n’y avait pas guichet à la gare de Saint-Louis.  Donc mon premier utilisation de français a été demander un billet du contrôleur.  Il a demande ou j’ai monté le train.  J’ai dit que j’ai monté à Saint-Louis.  Le billet a été plus cher que si j’ai acheté sur l’internet. 
Publicite de la Ville
Le propre et sa femme m’ont accueilli à l’appartement.  Ils ont parlé très vite mais j’ai compris plupart ce que il a dit. J’ai devenu angoissé ainsi j’ai essayé trouver les mots donc j’ai pu demander lui quelque questions.  Enfin, je l’ai dit de la fenêtre qu’il paraissait casse mais il n’a pas été.  L’appartement est très gentil.  La travaille de femme, je pense !!  Ils ont donne un cadeau de vin de Alsace, un gewurztraminer.  Il était très bon!
Aujourd’hui, j’ai marche à Strasbourg Centre-ville.  Centre-ville est pour les piétons, aussi pour les trams.  Diffèrent à Londres et Hong Kong ou il y avait plus gens dans les rues.  Je m’ai amuse promenade dans les rues. J’ai trouvé Galléries Lafayette Gourmand où j’ai fait des courses; des vins, le lait, du fromage, du café, etc.
Aujourd’hui, le temps fait beau, le soleil brille et le température est environs 21°C.  Il est presque l’été. 
Gare Centrale
Andrew, il y a beaucoup des cyclistes dans la ville. Il y a voie de velo partout.  En fait, il est plus probable que je serai tuer par un cycliste que par une voiture je pense!!
Ce soir je mange les asperge de Alsace que sont blanc et grand, aussi je mange du fromage du Montagne des Vosges lequel est comme un brie ou camembert.  Il est très bon.


I need to practise my French hence the above for those of you who want to read a little bit of French.  It does take a bit longer than writing in English.


Un bateau sur le canal
Last night I went to sleep easily enough but at 3:30pm I was wide awake.  Thus I was ready early for the bus to take me to Terminal 5 for my flight to Basel.  I took the public transport system (much cheaper) and I got there at the same time as another group who taken the expensive option and they had left 15 minutes earlier than me.  I had checked in to get a seat yesterday so all I had to do was pick up my boarding pass and deposit my bag.  They use a similar system to that of Air New Zealand.  Terminal 5 is the new terminal that is used by BA.  Reminiscent of Hong Kong Airport and it was very easy to get through.  Security was slightly stronger than New Zealand but nothing like the US.  I tried to get onto the internet as I thought they had free Wi-Fi, but no it was not free and would cost an arm and a leg.  So I was not able to see if the owner of the flat had responded to me.  While in the terminal I went looking to see if there was a place I could get a strap for the one that broke on my camera case.  I did get one so I was very happy.

The plane left early. It was an A319 and it would have been lucky to be even half full.  No wonder BA is losing money hand over fist. The plane was very used and it had similar leg room to Air NZ long haul. 
I had a good view of the countryside although it was difficult to see much detail due to the European haze, which is sort of brown.  Not as bad as it is over China though.  Beneath me was a brown and green patchwork of fields.
At Bale I tried again to get on the internet but no luck.  Then I took the bus to Gare de Saint Louis.  My initial attempts at French were not good.  I then left my wallet on the bus.  Fortunately a man picked it up and returned to me.  We had a bit of a cross cultural lack of understanding as I was not sure what to say, except merci several times.  I think that I got a bit anxious and flustered.  Either that or he wanted some sort of reward.  I suspect I looked a bit tired as well.
There was no where to buy a ticket and I had not bought one on line in case I got there a bit earlier.  So it cost me about a third more to buy on the train.  I managed to do that all in broken French but I did understand the conductor.
I was able to walk quicker from the station to my apartment.  Fortunitously the proprietor and his wife were there and he emerged just as I was going to text him that I had arrived.  He was a very friendly man who spoke very quickly.  I got the gist of most of what he was trying to say.  But when it came to speaking my tiredness and anxiety slowed me down.  However we communicated sufficiently.  
Appartment has been recently renovated and is very nicely appointed with the hand of woman clearly apparent.  It is quite roomy and airy.  It is on a relatively busy street but it quietens down during the evening.  The apartment is quite noisy. There is a dog next door that barks every time I arrive and there are random noises from neighbours but not too intrusive.
Today the weather is very nice, warmish and a nice 21°C. I have been into centre-ville.  Very nice and a model for trying to be kind to the environemnt as it is set up for pedestrians and cyclists.  There are these lovely modern trams that glide around the city centre and further afield I believe.  
 

Random thoughts about public transport etc

The hotel I stayed is was Premier Inn at Heathrow airport.  It was remarkably cheap although by train and bus about an hour out of London.  Nonetheless still cheaper than staying in London.  They have a great system at Heathrow where you can get on a bus for free if you are in the right zone.  The hotel is just outside the zone but only another bustop walk which takes about 5 mins.  In the end for me I suspect it made little difference as there is a maximum you can spend on an Oyster card for the day.  The Oyster card is similar to the Snapper but it works on all forms of public transport and at the end of the day works out how far you have been and then charges up to a maximum.  A great way to encourage people to use public transport. Congestion charging seems to work as the roads are remarkably unclogged.  The double decker buses are great for seeing things without too much being obscured.

Sunday, 17 April 2011

London/Londres 16 April 2011

Cheese for Lisa
Yesterday after a hearty English breakfast I took the train into London.  My first stop was the Borough Markets which are near the Tate Modern.  It was wonderful to wander around all this food ranging from strawberries grown in Spain, to cheese from various parts of France (sold of course by Frenchmen) to unpasteurised Stilton (yum).  They even had some Easter buns (not as nice as the range we can get in Wellington).  There was fish of various species and it was rather expensive. Mostly it was whole fish that was filleted by the stall holder.  I spent a wonderful or so tasting and wandering.  

As I needed to check-in online I was looking for a café with free Wi-Fi.  Finally found one near Tower Bridge but after several attempts the way that they had set it up prevented me from logging on.  A bit frustrating but nonetheless I had a good coffee.  As I had not walked across Tower Bridge I decided to do that and marvel and the structure and the engineering that had gone into building a bridge that could open and that looked so wonderful.  Outside the Tower of London I got a bus to Regent Street where I wanted to buy some jeans that seemed to be about a third less than I would pay for in New Zealand.  The bus trip was really nice but it took much longer to go that short distance compared to the Tube.  For £40 I bought a pair of jeans that fitted and did not need to be taken up , well almost. 

Is it human?
Still needing to find a place to connect to the internet I went in search of a café I found the last time I was here.  Fortuitously my homing instincts were good and I found it just off Carnaby Street.  The café is one that is owned (I think) by New Zealanders and makes some of the best coffee in New Zealand and also has some favourite cakes and biscuits of New Zealanders. It had Wi-Fi so I was able to go online and get my emails and to upload my blog. 

A woman sat down next to me while I was having my wonderful coffee and had a conversation on her mobile.  The voice had enough accent to make me think that it was a New Zealand accent, so in need of human contact,  and being nosey, I asked her if she was from New Zealand.  It turned out that she was and that she had been in London for ten years but was returning to New Zealand to work for Beca doing urban planning.  She was unsure about the return but had been made redundant and then was notified that her flat was about to be sold so figured that it was time to go home.  She said the economy was munted in Britain with unemployment climbing rapidly and much of her work had disappeared.   She asked about the cost of communication in New Zealand, such as broadband (did we have it) and cost of mobile.  I told her what I was paying.  In contrast she pays £12 for high speed broadband and all she can use.  The mobile is similarly relatively cheap to use.  I could not believe how cheap it was.  That is what competition delivers.

After that very pleasant conversation I found a bookshop to get the latest Hugh Johnson Pocket Book of Wine so that I would have some idea of who were the decent producers in Alsace.  I also got a map of the north of France so that I had a big picture of where I might go.  After having quickly skim read Hugh Johnson and looked at the map I think I might take a trip into the Mosel to have a look. 
 
I was shattered by the time I got back to my hotel.  Also my left ankle area seems to have a problem, not pain but it is swelling a bit after walking and feels a bit strange, not pain fortunately.  So I hope it is OK until I get home, in what is now a little under three weeks. It could of course be the result of walking ten or more kilometres a day.

Spring flowers (taken for Janet)
The contrast between London and Hong Kong was stark.  Both are very international cities and financial centres.  That is about where the similarities end.  Hong Kong is so much newer with underground system that is smooth and quick.  London’s underground is aging and on some lines it is worse than travelling on the Hutt line for sheer roughness of ride.  The London system also has these particular smells.  Hong Kong is all about high rise, no wonder not a lot of land to expand on.  London for an experience of history has it all over Hong Kong, in terms of the built history.  The crowds though are not dissimilar.  On Saturday there were people everywhere and it looks like there are far more tourists than I remember when I came in late September early October. 

Next post will be about my the first day of my French adventure